Food writing is a literary activity, built upon words, sentences and paragraphs rather than flour, butter and eggs. It may refer to the kitchen and the dining room, but it is forged in the library and the study. Someone who reads is not assumed to spend weekends fishing or fighting bulls. A devotion to Agatha Christie does not require you to be either a fiendishly clever murderer or detective…And so it must be with food writing. You can appreciate its delicious qualities without feeling the least need to pick up a wooden spoon and have a go yourself. Food writing is writing full stop, and the best of it does what good writing always does, which is to create an alternative world to the one you currently inhabit. Anything else is gravy.
Guardian Review Saturday 19 June 2010