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The hole in the wall…cooking doesn’t get better than this!


I grew up in a very sleepy village halfway between Cambridge and Newmarket where the highlight of the year was observing the annual stampede of visitors to Anglesey Abbey during it’s annual snowdrop season! So I was delighted when I heard via Twitter (yes I am an addict) that Alex Rushmer of Masterchef 2010 fame had chosen another, equally sleepy village just 5 minutes away, to open his first restaurant! He has breathed new life into a little old village inn right next door to my friend’s parent’s house called The Hole in the Wall, whilst still retaining many of its traditional features…

As soon as I found out about the location of the restaurant I called my parents who were only too happy to accompany me. They’re great fans of Alex, and had watched avidly as he battled it through to the Masterchef final. Coincidentally, I also found out that the last time they visited The Hole in the Wall was 27 years ago on the very first day that they moved to the area!

We were greeted warmly and looked after by our lovely waiter, who we later found out had only started work there that day!

The menu was short but so packed full of amazing sounding dishes that I even had trouble deciding between the 5 starters and 5 mains…

After much prevarication both me and my Dad chose the pork belly with caramelised shallot and cider sauce…

and my Mum had the ham-hock terrine with piccalilli and pork scratchings…

Both were delicious and left our mouths watering for the next course.

We finally decided to have the halibut fillet with smoked haddock and mussel chowder with spinach…

The chowder was packed full of flavour and just begged to be mopped up with some fresh bread, which was happily provided as soon as requested.

The summer lamb served with flageolet bean and sundried tomato cassoulet and artichokes was tender, pink in the middle and cooked to perfection…

And my chicken and chanterelle risotto with thyme, Suffolk alpine cheese and mushrooms was one of the lightest, tastiest risotto’s I’ve ever had…risotto just doesn’t get better than this! (I apologise…but I had to get my Masterchef quip in somewhere). The chanterelles had a great bite to them and the chicken melted in the mouth…the perfect combination…

My parents had heard on the village grapevine that the ‘portions were small and it was a bit expensive’ but I’d have to disagree on both counts. Firstly, we were pleasantly stuffed and secondly we definitely felt that we’d received value for money. The starters were between £6 and £8, mains £13-£17 and the desserts were £6-£8, which was probably a little on the pricy side. However we were very well looked after and had a lovely evening…it wasn’t just your standard village pub meal!

Anyway…one thing I’ve been brought up to believe is that…there’s ALWAYS room for dessert! So, after quite a lot of menu perusal and some waiter interrogation to make sure we were making the right choices (my family take our desserts very seriously), we opted for the chocolate and blackcurrant delice, which was a thick layer of chocolate torte and a layer of light, creamy blackcurrant mousse, topped with a tangy blackcurrant jelly…

And the greengage clafoutis for two. Our lovely waiter had warned us that the clafoutis, although described as ‘for two’ could easily be wolfed down by one. We didn’t want to appear greedy so we shared one but I wholeheartedly agree with him and could have definitely polished one off myself because it was so delicious! It was basically a very light, sweet Yorkshire pudding with this seasons juiciest greengages nestled into it, served to the table in it’s pan and topped with creamy vanilla ice cream mmm…

At this point we were fit to burst but always a sucker for some sweeties we were chuffed to be presented with a plate of petit fours…

Tangy fruit jelly squares…a posh version of Terry’s York Fruits, soft nougat that was chock full of nuts and some liquid caramel filled truffles. We did consider hiding our plate and pretending we’d been forgotten so that we could snaffle another helping but we chickened out and instead indulged in some petit four adulation with one of the waitresses. 

By the time we left it was dark outside and we were pleasantly full of delicious food. We even got a glimpse of the man himself working away in the kitchen. Alex should be very proud…The Hole in the Wall is a great little place with a compact, seasonal menu made up of the freshest, tastiest dishes, cooked to perfection (obviously! It’s no mean feat getting through to the final of Masterchef so I wouldn’t expect any less! J). We feel very lucky to have such a treat just down the road and can’t wait to return for our next instalment!

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The best laid plans of mice and men…last minute brownies & my trip to Playgroup Festival

When I wrote my last post I thought I was completely organised and ready for my weekend away at Playgroup Festival with only the final task of a baking a couple of batches of banana bread to complete. That was, until I spoke to my friend (and recent birthday girl therefore one of the main reasons I was taking cake to a festival!) and discovered the severity of her hate for banana’s doh! You know what they say about the best laid plans!? So in the last few minutes before leaving the office I changed tack and decided to make brownies instead I mean everyone loves brownie’s right?! I opened my dilemma up to my community of food lovers and bloggers on twitter, asking for brownie recipe recommendations and oh man they did not disappoint!

I was recommended these sea salt caramel brownie’s from the Baked Cookbook by @1mgoldstars, these from @yummly, @beaniebright told me to try Nigella’s flourless chocolate brownies which did look amazing but in the end I decided to follow a tip off from @newmassaros for these ‘ultimate very chocolatey brownies’ from The British Larder…

To make these amazingly gooey, deliciously chocolatey morsels you will need…

300g unsalted butter

300g dark chocolate (minimum 60% cocoa)

5 eggs

450g caster sugar

Seeds from 1 vanilla pod or 1 tsp vanilla extract

150g plain flour

50g cocoa powder

1tsp salt

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees and line a baking tray (approx 34 x 25cm x 6cm deep) with baking paper.

Break the chocolate into small pieces and put it in a bowl with the butter over a saucepan of simmering water. Stir until fully melted.

In another bowl beat the eggs, sugar and vanilla until they become thick, creamy and pale (don’t panic it doesn’t take long, even with a hand whisk and some elbow grease!).

Add the melted chocolate and butter mixture to the egg mixture slowly, whisking continuously to make sure it doesn’t curdle.

Finally sift the flour, cocoa powder and salt into the mixture and fold it in carefully.

Pour the brownie mixture into the prepared tin and smooth it over.

Bake for 20 minutes before checking on it. The aim is for it to be gooey in the middle but as the recipe says it ‘should not wobble’. If it’s still a bit wobbly when you shake it just pop it back in the oven for another 5 minutes and then check again.

Once you’re happy, leave it to cool (bear in mind that it carries on cooking as it cools). Then slice it into as large or small a sections as you fancy…

As I was cutting mine I panicked that I’d been a bit hasty and taken it out of the oven prematurely and that it was too gooey in the middle, however I was assured by @lexeat that it’s impossible to have an over-gooey brownie and lo and behold my fears were allayed when I offered it to my festival friends and they all fought over the gooeyest pieces from the middle J 

I can also confirm that it got even better after 2 days in a warm tent…I kid you not! Perfect festival baking!

Now a bit more about Playgroup…as I mentioned before it’s a very small, independent festival only in its second year. We were told there were only about 2000 people there, which made it wonderfully intimate and friendly and even I couldn’t get lost! J 

Everyone had thrown themselves into the spirit of the woodland animal fancy dress theme and my friends, who love an excuse to dress up, were no exception…

Due to its size the number of food stalls was minimal but it was very much a case of quality not quantity as the ones that were there were pretty darn good. One of my faves, which I stumbled across on the Saturday morning in my search for a good coffee was ‘Shitehawkes Coffee & Doughnuts’…

Where I was served by a man wearing a dressing gown and serenaded by a waistcoat-clad, shaven headed ukelele-er and funnily enough they served coffee…

and little French style doughnuts…

I also sampled a delicious vegetarian breakfast of scrambled egg, mushrooms cooked up with thyme, fried new potatoes with chilli flakes, grilled tomato, veggie sausage and a doorstep slice of soft granary bread and salted butter from the Lounged out Lizard tent and a great cuppa from Grannys Gaff but for me,the winner had to be Smokey Joe’s Caribbean Barbecue…

The pulled pork roll with salad and mojo mayonnaise was unbelievably tasty and worthy of some silent, eye closed savouring… 

Smokey Joe himself was a bit camera shy but I managed to pap him in the end (with his consent of course J)…

My friends also tried the jerk chicken and judging by their rave reviews I’d say Joe’s range of sauces may well be worth a try…

I also indulged in a fair amount of ‘Badgers Brew’ a light, hoppy, lager, which was brewed and named especially for the festival and of which we somehow managed to drink the bar dry!

We left the 3 day Playgroup extravaganza totally sated…with delicious food and drink, good music, an amazing pretension free atmosphere and great friends…how can you go wrong!

I’d just like to leave you with one of my favourite pics of the weekend…

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Delicious lunch at Massaro’s, Regent Street, Cambridge…ciabatta filled with fennel salami, fresh tomato, rocket and chunky homemade basil pesto!

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10/08/2011 · 12:18 pm

Banana bread baking…to accompany fancy dress-clad festival frolics in field…

It’s festival season again! This year I’m branching out from my usual jaunt to the Big Chill in an attempt to find a smaller, independent festival to switch my allegiances to. The festival of choice for 2011 is Playgroup, which promises fun and frolics in a field with zero arrogance and the added bonus of some woodland animal themed fancy dress…sounds ace!

Now, whilst some people may be sorting out their tent and wellies in preparation for such an event, I’ve been busying myself with making my mouse costume but more importantly, trying to decide what I can bake that will withstand being packed into tupperware and dragged across a field on a trolley 🙂 Last year’s plum traybake with cheesecake ripple withstood the challenge and went down a treat so I’ve got a lot to live up to.

I think I’ve come up with the perfect solution…I recently rediscovered my copy of ‘Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights’ cook book by Sophie Dahl, who I’m quite open about being both horrendously annoyed by and supremely envious of. However, something I can’t begrudge her is that she knows how to make a mean banana bread…

and…it’s soooo easy to make!

You need…

75g butter, softened

4 ripe bananas, mashed

200g soft brown sugar

1 egg, beaten

1 tbsp vanilla extract

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 pinch of salt

170g plain flour (or spelt or whatever)

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees and grease and line a 2lb/900g loaf tin.

Mix together the mashed banana, butter, sugar, egg and vanilla extract.

Add the bicarbonate of soda and salt and finally the flour.

Pour into the prepared tin and bake in the oven for about 1 hour (I always check after about 45 minutes by sticking a skewer or sharp knife into the centre of the cake…if it comes out clean, it’s ready). When you’re happy that it’s ready remove it from the oven and leave it to cool.

I’ve made other banana breads before but I have to say, this is definitely one of the best. Even better when you follow Sophie’s advice to slice it, toast it and serve it with butter…

I know what I’ll be doing on Thursday night in amongst trying to find my sleeping bag, novelty wigs, waterproof jacket, bin bags and mouse ears…baking a couple of loaves of delicious banana bread…they should at least see us through the journey! 🙂

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Uno Cafe Cortado Con Hielo Por Favor…

It feels like a million years since my holiday, when in actual fact it’s been less than a week since I returned from 7 gorgeous days in Tarifa, the southern-most town in Spain. It’s well renowned for being an extremely windy place but to be honest the wind had it’s perks…it not only made the 30 degree heat manageable but also provided us with a steady stream of eye candy in the form of hot kiteboarders and windsurfers! 🙂

We stayed in the heart of the old town and I completely fell in love with the way, and pace of life…I developed a routine of waking up late and popping to the local market for fresh bread, jamon, juicy tomatoes and fruit for breakfast before stopping in at my favourite cafe for a coffee…

In amongst hitchiking down the coast, exploring hilltop villages and doing 50km mountain bike rides in the national park we somehow managed to find a lot of time for this…

and this…

That’s what holiday’s are all about right?

I think the Spanish have got it spot on when it comes to the simplicity of their food and drink. If you’ve got amazing ingredients at your fingertips there’s just no need to overcomplicate things.

My Spanish language skills are pretty basic but I’m very good at ordering cerveza and my other favourite drink…cafe cortado con hielo…an espresso with a small amount of warm milk, served over ice.

The espresso and ice are served separately…

you add the sugar (if you take it) to the hot cafe cortado…

then pour it into the glass, over the ice…

and you’re left with a gorgeous, strong, refreshing coffee perfect for drinking in the sunshine…

My favourite breakfast of the week was simply white toast, a pot of sweet, freshly pureed tomatoes, a couple of slices of jamon iberico and some olive oil to construct and devour however you wish…

After spending our first evening trying to figure out the convoluted (and somewhat clandestine) table booking system in our local town square we realised that not everything was quite as simple in Tarifa! However we finally cracked it and our perseverance was rewarded with this towering pile of delicious chunky calamares…

My last few trips to Spain have been spent roadtripping from Santander along the north coast, where we were introduced to kalimotxo, a mixture of red wine and coca cola, served over ice with a slice of lemon (don’t knock it til you’ve tried it). Unfortunately it took us a whole week to discover the local equivalent…tinto de verano, a sangria type drink made with one part red wine and one part Fanta Limon mmm…

I left Tarifa with a heavy heart, a head full of hair brained plans to move there and just one regret…that we never got to sample ‘secret pig’…

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This weekend I finally fulfilled my ambition to visit the Towpath Cafe (Regent’s Canal towpath, between Whitmore Bridge and Kingsland Road Bridge, N1 5SB). My sunny Sunday brunch consisted of zingy runner bean, red onion and Berkswell cheese salad and a plate of the most deliciously creamy mozzarella, drizzled with olive oil and a freshly sliced pile of melt in the mouth proscuitto with some sourdough bread to mop it all up with…I’m happy to confirm that the hype is well earned!

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10/07/2011 · 6:50 pm

Feeling a bit under the weather and in need of some comfort baking today…buttermilk scones a la Darina Allen fresh out of the oven (recipe here).

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09/07/2011 · 4:21 pm

Moreish macaroons…

These little beauties are coconut macaroons…deliciously sweet and chewy on the inside and slightly caramelised and crispy on the outside… 

 

Macaroons like these have been somewhat overshadowed by the pastel coloured, prettiness and popularity of the French macaron. I’m yet to pluck up the courage to make the French variety but my ‘ugly duckling’ macaroons as I’ve christened them, are soooo easy make…but beware they come with a warning…you’ll need a lot of willpower to not devour the whole lot in one sitting! actually you’ll be lucky if you can resist until they’re fully cooled 🙂

To make about 24 macaroons you’ll need…

4 egg whites, at room temperature

200g granulated white sugar

1/4 tsp salt

1 tsp vanilla extract

60g plain flour, sifted

300g dessicated coconut

Whisk the egg whites, sugar, and salt in a heatproof bowl placed over a saucepan of simmering water. When the mixture is warm and nice and creamy it’s ready! So remove it from heat and stir in the vanilla extract, flour, and dessicated coconut. 

Cover and put in the fridge for about two hours, or until firm. 

Preheat the oven to 165 degrees and line two baking sheets with baking paper.

Take a tablespoon of the cooled coconut mixture at a time and roll into a ball between your palms before placing on the prepared baking sheets. Make sure you leave about an inch or so gap between your macaroons so they have room to expand…

Bake for about 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown. 

Remove from the oven and let them cool on the baking sheet for about 10 minutes and then transfer them onto a wire rack to cool completely…

I challenge you to wait that long before sampling them!

They were delicious warm from the oven, delicious once they’d cooled and…after forcing myself not to finish the whole batch in one sitting, I discovered they’re still equally as delicious a couple of days later!

The recipe I used was from the Joy of Baking website. 

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Not just any old millionaire’s shortbread…

This fine specimen of home baked goodness isn’t just your common or garden millionaire’s shortbread…No!…nestled between the layer of gorgeous, dark chocolate and the thick, gooey layer of homemade caramel is a sprinkling of flaked maldon sea salt just waiting to get your taste buds going!

I’m a self confessed salt fiend as documented here, so this recipe for salted caramel millionaire’s shortbread is right up my alley! Salted caramel in both desserts and chocolates seem to be all the rage at the moment and all I can say is, if you haven’t tried it…you’re missing out! The salt acts to balance out the super sweetness of the caramel, blending into the overall taste. However in this case I consider it very lucky to come across one of the little nuggets of saltiness, the way it zings and melts on your tongue really is something special! Don’t just take my word for it though…try it for yourself!

Here’s how to make it…

Preheat the oven to 170 degrees and line a 30 x 22cm (12 x 9in) tin with greaseproof paper to make it easier to get the shortbread out later.

For the shortbread layer you’ll need…

300g plain flour 

325g butter 

80g caster sugar 

3 tsp cornflour 

1/4 tsp salt

The recipe I was following told you to put the shortbread ingredients into a food processor and whizz it up until the mixture comes together in a ball. However, I don’t own a food processor so I just rubbed the butter into dry ingredients by hand…don’t worry if, like me, you’re sans snazzy kitchen equipment…it’ll turn out just as good but will just take a little longer. Whichever method you use, once the ingredients have come together into a ball, take the shortbread and press it into the bottom of your prepared tin, making it as even a layer as possible. Prick it all over with a fork. Bake it for five minutes before turning the oven down to 150 degrees and cooking for a further 30 minutes, or until pale golden. Remove it from the oven and leave it to cool in the tin.

For the caramel layer you’ll need…

115g butter 

400g tin sweetened condensed milk 

4 tbsp golden syrup 

1 tsp Maldon sea salt flakes 

225g good-quality dark chocolate (for the topping)

Melt the butter in a pan over a low heat then stir in the condensed milk and golden syrup. Bring the mixture to a simmer…

Try to keep the temperature even and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring continuously…

You’ll know it’s ready when it’s thick and golden-brown…

Pour your gloopy caramel evenly over the cooled shortbread. Leave it to cool a little and when it’s formed a slight skin sprinkle over the magic sea salt flakes! Now leave it to set for about half an hour…

Finally, break the chocolate into pieces and melt in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Leave it to cool for five minutes before pouring it over the caramel. The recipe gave me a great tip to ‘create a nice smooth surface by tilting the tin so that the chocolate runs into the corners’…perfection…

Leave it to cool in the fridge for an hour or more if you have time. Apparently you can also sprinkle a little more salt on the surface of the chocolate before it’s completely set, I wasn’t sure my chosen guinea pigs were quite as in to their salt as me so I decided not to overdo it!

When the surface is completely set and cold you can lift it out of the tin…

and cut it into squares…

Not only does the addition of the salt add a whole new delicious dimension to this millionaire’s shortbread but the cornflour in the shortbread layer makes it just melt in the mouth…all in all a raging success, even if I do say so myself! 🙂

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Coffee & cake…the perfect Union!

Last week I was invited to attend Taste of London by Union Hand-Roasted Coffee. It’s no secret that I’m a complete coffee (not to mention good food) addict…so I obviously jumped at the chance! I turned up wearing extremely unsuitable footwear, having just left my umbrella on the bus on what was one of the greyest, most miserable, rainy, English summer days ever! However we didn’t let the rain stop play and instead we did what any true Brit would do…donned a fetching poncho and braved the weather in search of some tasty morsels…and amazing coffee of course!

First stop was the Barrafina, Fino and Quo Vadis stands where we sampled these delicious dishes…


After which we were led to the Union stand where Jeremy (pictured below) talked us through some of the latest Union coffee varieties. I love people who are enthusiastic about their subject matter and Jeremy’s passion for coffee was totally infectious…I dare say he could have lured even a non-coffee drinker over to the dark side of caffeine consumption


He talked about the fact that we need to make people realise that coffee isn’t JUST coffee! There are so many varieties and brewing methods, which all produce very different tastes and experiences. There is no right or wrong opinion when it comes to drinking coffee and  everyone will have their own preference….it’s more about feeling able to express that preference and building your own vocabulary to describe what you like…coffee drinkers liberation if you will!

We then tried some La Esperanza Geisha from Colombia prepared in a syphon, very reminiscent of school science classes…


Then Rwandan abahuzamugambi ba kawa ‘exceptional lot’ maraba, prepared in a pour over…


And their Gajah mountain, Aceh, Sumatran coffee, which packed a real punch, prepared in an Aeropress…


I was in total coffee heaven and the lovely Union guys, packed me off with enough coffee to keep me awake for days!


I headed off for a wander around the rest of the festival, sampled a dish of slow cooked lamb with buttered potato and caramelised onion gravy from The Rhodes 24 stand…

And even bumped (not literally) into Marcus Wareing…


Now, I’m a bit of a recipe hoarder and have recently started taking photos of recipes that catch my eye on my phone; sometimes they’re from magazines or sometimes from friends cook books. I don’t even remember where some of them are from but they’re stored away until the perfect baking occasion presents itself! On my way home from Taste I remembered one such recipe that I’d stashed away a few weeks ago…the perfect opportunity to use some delicious Union coffee…

As soon as I got home I whipped up a coffee poppy seed cake…


To make it you’ll need…

100g poppy seed

80g sour cream

150g plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

½ tsp ground cinnamon

Pinch of salt

150g butter, softened

250g caster sugar

3 eggs

1 tsp vanilla extract

40ml espresso

You need to do a tiny bit of advance prep before you can make this cake by stirring the poppy seeds into the sour cream and leaving them to ‘soak’ for at least 2 hours (or overnight if you have time).

Heat the oven to 170 degrees and line a 20cm or 22cm tin with baking paper.

Sift the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, cinnamon and salt into a bowl and set aside for later.

In another bowl, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time; adding a spoonful of the flour mixture after each egg so that the cake batter doesn’t curdle. Mix in the vanilla extract and espresso. Finally fold in the remaining flour mixture, alternating with the sour cream and poppy seeds. Stir until just combined but try not to overmix.

Pour the cake mixture into your prepared tin, smooth the top and bake for 35-40 minutes. If you’re using a 20cm tin it may need an extra 5 minutes of so as the cake will be deeper but test it after 40 mins by inserting a skewer into the centre…if it comes out clean it’s ready!

Leave it to cool in the tin for a few minutes then turn it out onto a rack to cool completely before icing.

For the icing you need…

50ml espresso

125g icing sugar

Beat the espresso with the icing sugar until it’s smooth and lump free and simply pour it over the cake to create a gorgeous coffee glaze!

I don’t think I’ve ever tried a cake quite like it…deliciously unusual! The coffee gave the cake the most amazing richness and the poppy seeds added a great crunch! It was extremely moreish…the perfect accompaniment for a cup (or 3) of Union Hand-Roasted Coffee!


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