Tag Archives: cambridge

The hole in the wall…cooking doesn’t get better than this!


I grew up in a very sleepy village halfway between Cambridge and Newmarket where the highlight of the year was observing the annual stampede of visitors to Anglesey Abbey during it’s annual snowdrop season! So I was delighted when I heard via Twitter (yes I am an addict) that Alex Rushmer of Masterchef 2010 fame had chosen another, equally sleepy village just 5 minutes away, to open his first restaurant! He has breathed new life into a little old village inn right next door to my friend’s parent’s house called The Hole in the Wall, whilst still retaining many of its traditional features…

As soon as I found out about the location of the restaurant I called my parents who were only too happy to accompany me. They’re great fans of Alex, and had watched avidly as he battled it through to the Masterchef final. Coincidentally, I also found out that the last time they visited The Hole in the Wall was 27 years ago on the very first day that they moved to the area!

We were greeted warmly and looked after by our lovely waiter, who we later found out had only started work there that day!

The menu was short but so packed full of amazing sounding dishes that I even had trouble deciding between the 5 starters and 5 mains…

After much prevarication both me and my Dad chose the pork belly with caramelised shallot and cider sauce…

and my Mum had the ham-hock terrine with piccalilli and pork scratchings…

Both were delicious and left our mouths watering for the next course.

We finally decided to have the halibut fillet with smoked haddock and mussel chowder with spinach…

The chowder was packed full of flavour and just begged to be mopped up with some fresh bread, which was happily provided as soon as requested.

The summer lamb served with flageolet bean and sundried tomato cassoulet and artichokes was tender, pink in the middle and cooked to perfection…

And my chicken and chanterelle risotto with thyme, Suffolk alpine cheese and mushrooms was one of the lightest, tastiest risotto’s I’ve ever had…risotto just doesn’t get better than this! (I apologise…but I had to get my Masterchef quip in somewhere). The chanterelles had a great bite to them and the chicken melted in the mouth…the perfect combination…

My parents had heard on the village grapevine that the ‘portions were small and it was a bit expensive’ but I’d have to disagree on both counts. Firstly, we were pleasantly stuffed and secondly we definitely felt that we’d received value for money. The starters were between £6 and £8, mains £13-£17 and the desserts were £6-£8, which was probably a little on the pricy side. However we were very well looked after and had a lovely evening…it wasn’t just your standard village pub meal!

Anyway…one thing I’ve been brought up to believe is that…there’s ALWAYS room for dessert! So, after quite a lot of menu perusal and some waiter interrogation to make sure we were making the right choices (my family take our desserts very seriously), we opted for the chocolate and blackcurrant delice, which was a thick layer of chocolate torte and a layer of light, creamy blackcurrant mousse, topped with a tangy blackcurrant jelly…

And the greengage clafoutis for two. Our lovely waiter had warned us that the clafoutis, although described as ‘for two’ could easily be wolfed down by one. We didn’t want to appear greedy so we shared one but I wholeheartedly agree with him and could have definitely polished one off myself because it was so delicious! It was basically a very light, sweet Yorkshire pudding with this seasons juiciest greengages nestled into it, served to the table in it’s pan and topped with creamy vanilla ice cream mmm…

At this point we were fit to burst but always a sucker for some sweeties we were chuffed to be presented with a plate of petit fours…

Tangy fruit jelly squares…a posh version of Terry’s York Fruits, soft nougat that was chock full of nuts and some liquid caramel filled truffles. We did consider hiding our plate and pretending we’d been forgotten so that we could snaffle another helping but we chickened out and instead indulged in some petit four adulation with one of the waitresses. 

By the time we left it was dark outside and we were pleasantly full of delicious food. We even got a glimpse of the man himself working away in the kitchen. Alex should be very proud…The Hole in the Wall is a great little place with a compact, seasonal menu made up of the freshest, tastiest dishes, cooked to perfection (obviously! It’s no mean feat getting through to the final of Masterchef so I wouldn’t expect any less! J). We feel very lucky to have such a treat just down the road and can’t wait to return for our next instalment!

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Delicious lunch at Massaro’s, Regent Street, Cambridge…ciabatta filled with fennel salami, fresh tomato, rocket and chunky homemade basil pesto!

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10/08/2011 · 12:18 pm

Fitzbillies…gone but not forgotten

This post is a tribute to the legend that is Fitzbillies, a Cambridge institution that had, up until a couple of weeks ago been producing the most amazing trademark chelsea buns for 90 years! Sadly they were forced to close as ‘a result of the very difficult economic times’. I was born and bred in Cambridge and am absolutely gutted to see the demise of such an iconic, independent business!

I’ve never made my own chelsea buns, but inspired by sentimentality I decided to give them a go. They most definitely weren’t up to the sticky, gooey, standard of the Fitzbillies original but…they were darn tasty!…

They’re actually pretty simple to make but you do need to have a bit of time on your hands as there’s quite a lot of setting aside for resting and rising involved…the perfect occupation for a chilled out Sunday afternoon.

To make about 15 chelsea buns you will need…

540g strong white flour (plus a little bit extra for dusting)

1tsp salt

1 packet of easy-blend-yeast

1/2 pint milk

60g unsalted butter (plus a bit extra for greasing the baking tray)

1 egg, lightly beaten

Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. This makes the finished buns lighter.

Make a well in the flour and add the packet of yeast.

Slowly warm the milk and butter in a pan until all of the butter has melted. Then add it to the flour mixture. Partially mix together and then add the beaten egg before continuing to mix until it forms a soft dough.

Get stuck in and knead it for about 5 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Cover the bowl with clingfilm, or put it in a plastic bag and place it somewhere warm like an airing cupboard, until the dough has doubled in size. I don’t have an airing cupbard so I used a trick that I learned from watching Lorraine Pascale on Baking Made Easy. She turned the oven on to preheat and sat the bowl on a tall stall right next to it, which provided enough warmth to encourage the dough to rise. Be warned it might take about an hour.

But as if by magic, mine turned from this…

into this…

Whilst you’re waiting for your dough to rise you can grease a 13 by 9inch (ish) baking tray with a little bit of butter and prepare your filling by mixing 270g dried fruit (I used a mixture of sultanas and raisins but you can also use currants and/or mixed peel if you like) with 120g dark brown soft sugar in a bowl.

Remove the risen dough from the bowl and knock it back with your fist to expel the air until it’s back to its original size.

Sprinkle your kitchen surface or a board with flour and roll the dough out into a rectangle approximately 15 by 20 inches.

Brush the surface with 120g melted butter and sprinkle the dried fruit and sugar combo evenly over the entire surface.

Now, comes the slightly tricky bit if you’re baking solo…you need to roll the dough up from the long side, in the style of a swiss roll. Don’t worry if it doesn’t look too neat to start off with, I managed to get mine back on track after a pretty rocky start!

Once you’ve rolled it into a giant sausage, cut it into about 15 pieces and arrange them evenly in the greased baking tray. Leave a little bit of space between each bun…

Cover the tray with more clingfilm and put it back in a warm place for about half an hour, by which time, they should double in size again…

While they are rising, heat the oven to 200 degrees.

Now bake them for 25 minutes or until they’re golden on top.

While they’re baking, you need to prepare the piece de resistance, the bit that makes a chelsea bun, a proper chelsea bun…the glaze!

Dissolve 2tbsp caster sugar in 1tbsp milk, over a low heat. Then bring it to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Don’t do this bit too early, like I did, as you’ll get left with a congealed mess. It only takes a few minutes to prepare so wait until the buns are on the verge of being ready.

Remove the glorious buns from the oven and brush them with the glaze. Carefully take them out of the tin and transfer them onto a wire rack to cool. This is no mean feat but apparently it’s very important so that they don’t become soggy on the bottom.

As soon as they’re cool enough, break them apart…and tuck in!

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Foraging in the fens

I decided this weekend that it was high time I escaped London and visited my friends and family back in Cambridge. There’s something about going home to the flat, open fenlands that gives me an enormous sense of wellbeing and calm. However by Sunday I was having severe baking withdrawal symptoms so I started trawling my Mums vast cookery book collection and came across a book called ‘101 cakes and bakes’. I discovered a recipe for blackberry and apple loaf, which I have also found on the Good Food website here.

Now is the season for both blackberries…

and apples…

so I had the perfect chance to make the most of the fruits growing on my doorstep and in my parents garden. After a yummy homemade Sunday lunch me and my brother went foraging for blackberries straight from the hedgerow…it felt extremely wholesome and we managed to collect a bumper crop…

enough for my cake, with some left over to put in the freezer for another day.

Here’s the recipe I followed for blackberry and apple loaf –

250g self raising flour

175g butter

175g light muscovado sugar

1/2tsp cinnamon

2 rounded tbsp demerara sugar

1 small eating apple, quartered (not cored or peeled)

2 large eggs, beaten

1 orange, finely grated zest

1tsp baking powder

225g blackberries

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees. Grease and line a (1.7 litre) loaf tin.

This recipe uses a bit of a different method…you rub the flour, butter and muscovado sugar together with your fingertips to make fine crumbs. Measure out 5 tbsp of this mixture in a separate bowl, mix with the demerara sugar and cinnamon and set aside to use later as the topping for the loaf.

Coarsely grate the apple and mix with the eggs and the zest. 

Stir the baking powder into the rubbed-in mixture in the large bowl and then quickly stir in the egg mixture until incorporated but be careful not to overmix.

Carefully fold in 3/4 of the berries trying not to break them up. Spoon the mixture into the tin and level it out. Scatter the remaining berries on top and sprinkle over the topping mix.

Bake for 50 minutes, remove from the oven and cover it loosely with tin foil to stop it browning too much. Then return it to the oven for 20-30 minutes until firm. Insert a sharp knife or skewer, if it comes out clean the cake is ready!

Leave in the tin for 30 minutes…

 before turning it out onto a wire rack to cool…

then slice and revel in it’s beauty…

The recipe says that it will keep for up to 2 days in a tin, however it’s so delicious and moreish, that if you’re anything like me and my family, it probably won’t last longer than a couple of hours let alone days.

The blackberries are tangy, the cake is rich and extremely moist and the topping adds a gorgeous crunchy texture…

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